Les Village

The history of Les Village, nestled in the serene Tejakula district of North Bali’s Buleleng Regency, is a compelling narrative of resilience, migration, and the deep-seated spiritual connection of the Balinese people with their land and sea. This ancient settlement, far removed from the bustling tourist centers of the south, offers a glimpse into the authentic, preserved history of the island, a story of adaptation that is deeply rooted in the Bali Aga culture, the island’s indigenous inhabitants. According to local lore, the area that is now Les was originally known as Panjingan before the 10th century. The name Panjingan is derived from the word manjing, meaning “to enter,” suggesting that this coastal area was once a strategically significant port, a key entry point for trade and interaction along the northern coast of Bali, long before European powers or the dominance of the southern kingdoms shaped the island. This era of Panjingan speaks to a time when North Bali was a pivotal nexus of maritime activity, connecting the island to greater Indonesian archipelago trade routes. The earliest inhabitants leveraged the abundance of the Bali Sea and the fertile, albeit dry, northern foothills for their sustenance Semat Travel Indonesia.

The transition from Panjingan to the modern-day Les is marked by a pivotal and dramatic event in the village’s past, a testament to the cycles of conflict and displacement that have occasionally punctuated Balinese history. The oral tradition recounts a devastating attack by a group known as the Wong Bajo (sea people/nomads) who, following a grudge related to a cockfighting incident, sought revenge. They strategically planted kapok trees around Panjingan and, years later, returned to launch a surprise attack, using the now-dry kapok wood to fuel a conflagration that utterly destroyed the village and its revered Puseh Temple. This traumatic event forced the original villagers to flee, carrying their most sacred relics—kris, spears, and daggers—into the safety of the nearby hills near the Yeh Tah waterfall. This exodus and subsequent establishment of a new, temporary settlement demonstrates the paramount importance of their spiritual heritage and sacred objects, which were prioritized even over physical belongings Bali honeymoon sightseeing tour.

The refugees established a new settlement, initially called Bahu (meaning “New”), which later evolved into Banjar Buhu, a name derived from a giant Buhu tree that exhibited mysterious powers of regrowth even after being cut down, a potent symbol of their community’s enduring spirit. However, the search for a secure and sustainable home continued. Fearing future assaults, they sought refuge in a naturally fortified location west of the Yeh Tah area, naming it Hyang Widhi Village, where they built the Sanggah Yangudi Temple and their community cemetery. This move reflects a defensive strategy, choosing geography for protection. Yet, life was challenging; limited agricultural land and scarcity of water, a persistent issue in North Bali, necessitated another move. This final, strategic relocation brought them downhill to the current location, and this act of escaping or hiding is believed by some to be the origin of the name Les, possibly from the Kawi word les (meaning “escape”) or ngenes (to hide/conceal). The name itself, therefore, is a linguistic monument to the community’s turbulent past and their determination to find lasting peace Bali photography honeymoon tour.

The village’s history is further enriched by subsequent waves of migration. Some original, fearful inhabitants dispersed to other villages like Bungkulan, Jinengdalem, and Pengelatan, but maintained kinship and spiritual ties, recognizing the ancestral home. Later, settlers from Bumbungan, Klungkung, noble refugees fleeing family conflicts in the southern kingdom, arrived in the eastern part of Les. These newcomers, of aristocratic descent (Anak Agung), had to negotiate their entry, agreeing to abandon their noble titles and fully integrate into the established customs of Desa Pakraman Les (the traditional village system). This historical moment is significant, illustrating the strength and resilience of the traditional Les village structure and its power to absorb and assimilate newcomers while preserving its own cultural identity. This blend of aristocratic and indigenous bloodlines over time contributed to the unique cultural tapestry of Les and the neighboring village of Penuktukan. The arrival of Pande blacksmiths, who established a market, further solidified the area as a center of commerce and craft, leading to the formation of Penuktukan, which, though administratively separate today, remains spiritually and culturally entwined with Les, worshipping in the same Kahyangan Tiga temples.

More recently, Les Village has become a global example of community-led environmental restoration. The history of the village in the late 20th century was marred by the widespread practice of cyanide fishing for marine ornamental fish, which, driven by economic necessity and market demand beginning in the mid-1980s, severely devastated the local coral reefs and marine ecosystem. This destructive practice brought the community’s traditional fishing livelihoods to the brink of collapse. The turning point came around the early 2000s when local fishers, realizing the devastating long-term consequences, initiated a movement to transition to eco-friendly fishing methods. This was a moral and existential crisis resolved by community action, leading to the founding of the Les Marine Conservation Project and later, the Amisewaka Desa Les Community Center. This contemporary history of conservation, marked by the collaboration with NGOs and institutions to plant and restore coral reefs (notably through the use of spider frame modules), is now a central part of the village’s identity, transforming a community struggling with environmental degradation into a celebrated model of sustainable tourism and ecological stewardship. The recognition of Les as the Best Tourism Village in Indonesia (ADWI) in 2024 is the culmination of this long, dynamic history, from ancient port to displaced settlement, and finally, to a world-renowned ecological success story. The story of Les is truly one of the ocean’s heart, broken and mended by the hands of its people, a testament to the enduring Tri Hita Karana philosophy that guides Balinese life.